Read before you go 📖

City guides long enough to actually plan a trip from.

The City Palace of Udaipur rising above Lake Pichola, seen from the water📖 4 min read

A Slow Weekend in Udaipur

Udaipur, Rajasthan

Published 8 Sept 2026

Two lakes, one enormous palace and a city that punishes rushing — a 48-hour plan built around sunsets, courtyards and a very long lunch.

The Victorian Gothic facade and central clock tower of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus in Mumbai at golden hour📖 5 min read

Art Deco and Gothic Mumbai, on Foot

Mumbai, Maharashtra

Published 7 Sept 2026

One maidan with Victorian Gothic on one side and 1930s Art Deco on the other — a UNESCO-listed walk through the two Bombays, in about three hours.

The white marble Taj Lake Palace sitting on an island in Lake Pichola, Udaipur, with hills behind📖 5 min read

Photographing Udaipur: Lakes and Palaces

Udaipur, Rajasthan

Published 4 Sept 2026

Where to stand for the City Palace reflection, which ghat gets the blue hour, and the sunrise hills above Lake Pichola. A photographer's route through Udaipur.

Hand-carved wooden printing blocks with intricate floral and paisley patterns laid out on a red surface📖 5 min read

Shopping in Jaipur: Block Print, Gems and Bazaars

Jaipur, Rajasthan

Published 1 Sept 2026

Sanganer versus Bagru printing, why blue pottery has no clay in it, and the gemstone rules that keep visitors out of trouble in Johari Bazaar.

A chai vendor in Varanasi straining tea from a pan into a kettle over a coal fire, surrounded by steel pots and cups📖 5 min read

Eating in Varanasi: From Kachori to Malaiyo

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Published 28 Aug 2026

Morning kachori-sabzi, tomato chaat found nowhere else, clay-cup lassi and a winter-only milk foam set by dew. How to eat your way through Banaras.

The Gateway of India in Mumbai mirrored in rainwater on the plaza in front of it📖 4 min read

Eating Mumbai, Street by Street

Mumbai, Maharashtra

Published 25 Aug 2026

Vada pav at a bus stop, berry pulao in an Irani café, dosa in Matunga and Koli seafood near the docks — a day of eating organised by neighbourhood.

A watchtower and fortified wall of Nahargarh running along the Aravalli ridge above Jaipur📖 5 min read

Three Forts of Jaipur in One Day

Jaipur, Rajasthan

Published 25 Aug 2026

Amber, Jaigarh and Nahargarh sit on one ridge and share one ticket. Here is the order to do them in, the timings that matter, and where lunch fits.

Wooden beach huts and shacks under a dense row of coconut palms on a quiet Goan beach📖 5 min read

Quiet Goa, Away From the Crowds

Goa

Published 22 Aug 2026

South Goa's turtle beaches, the island villages reached by free ferry, and the stretches of coast where nobody has built a nightclub yet.

A crowded Old Delhi bazaar lane under a tangle of overhead power cables, with shopfronts and a red umbrella stall📖 5 min read

Delhi Markets Worth the Trip

Delhi

Published 19 Aug 2026

Spices in Khari Baoli, silver in Dariba Kalan, export surplus in Sarojini Nagar. Which of Delhi's markets sells what, and what each one costs you in time.

A Goan fish thali: fried mackerel and rava-crusted fish on a banana leaf, a bowl of coconut fish curry, red parboiled rice and a glass of pink kokum solkadhi📖 5 min read

The Two Kitchens of Goa

Goa

Published 14 Aug 2026

Vindaloo is not a heat rating and xacuti is not curry powder. A guide to Goa's two distinct kitchens, the dishes worth ordering, and where to find them.

The red sandstone and marble facade of Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, framed by a gateway arch📖 6 min read

Old Delhi and New Delhi in Two Days

Delhi

Published 11 Aug 2026

Old Delhi and Lutyens' Delhi are two different cities with one name. A first-timer's two-day plan that treats them that way, and uses the metro between.

The Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace hotel seen from the water on the Mumbai waterfront📖 5 min read

Your First 48 Hours in Mumbai

Mumbai, Maharashtra

Published 8 Aug 2026

Two days that make sense of a city of twenty million: the island fort, the ferry to Elephanta, the local trains, and the hour Marine Drive turns gold.

The tiered pink sandstone facade and latticed windows of Hawa Mahal in Jaipur📖 5 min read

Three Days in Jaipur

Jaipur, Rajasthan

Published 4 Aug 2026

A first-timer's three-day plan for the Pink City — the walled town on foot, the forts before the heat, and where to sit down when it wins anyway.

A palm-backed Goan beach with shacks and moored boats above turquoise water📖 5 min read

Goa Beyond the Beaches

Goa

Published 21 Jul 2026

Ferries, spice farms, Portuguese churches and a Latin Quarter you can walk in an hour — the Goa that starts about fifteen minutes inland.

Boats moored along the ghats of Varanasi on the Ganges📖 4 min read

Sunrise on the Varanasi Ghats

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Published 30 Jun 2026

How to do the dawn boat properly, what to do with the rest of the day, and how to behave at the two ghats where people are being cremated.